Coasting = Kinetic energy losing out to friction Regen* = Kinetic energy turning to electric energy (from motor) to chemical energy (in the cells) Braking = Coasting + regen + friction from disk brakes
Enough science for today. Next class, tomorrow.
Applying brakes already introduce regen by Ather software.
*Regen happens only when battery is some 85% or so, because of science…
Then what is the purpose of appying throttle in opposite direction ?. Which one produce more regen power ?
Why not talk about super caps ? It’s fentastic idea to charge and discharge superfast , <100W energy from regen for almost million times. Better suit for indian traffic roads. So it gives additional 20 - 30 % range is in it ?
I already talked too much about it. 
It is regen braking. It tries to recharge the cells. But then if you brake, it is disc + regen when applicable so that braking is effective.
What if Scooter is at 80km/hr and instead of throttle in the opposite direction - I left accelerator completely? Will regen work?
no it doesn’t
Its better to give customer choice for regenerative braking high and low.
While de acceleration direct regeneration needs to be start without brakes. If applying brakes can drop the speed of scooter immediately.
I attached Jaguar iPace videos.
Give low power mode its needful, if some one wants to achieve distance more than range.
You can adjust brightness of cluster in low power mode. No auto brightness sensor
In daylight you can off head lights also, already DRL running on handle bars.
Need auto headlight to reduce power consumption. In daytime no use of headlight.
You already have an ECO mode. Anything slower than that will be a disservice to the “Performance Scooter” tag.
Those pilot lamps do not comply with DRL requirements, which is why AHO is there in the 450 platform. Besides, the led lamps draw significantly less power and won’t add to any substantial range increase.
For cars in stop and go traffic- YES. For bikes and scooters that can cruise through the gaps - the current setup to manually trigger regen is more suitable.
However for long continuous downhill journey its tiring to keep on pushing the throttle to -ve side.
You don’t have to. You get enough power back bh just coasting downhill. 
Its Difficult for long continuous stiff slopes to keep throttle at 5 deg in reverse direction. Instead it should work - when I leave throttle completely !
or else second scenario could be - I’m at certain (above 30-40kmph) speed - I left throttle completely - regen should work without applying beaks
It could be great when regenerative indication enabled in dashboard when we reverse throttle/apply brakes.
I expect this could come in next update,
This is much awaited feature. Also it is better to add indication of the cumulative of regeneration gained
still I don’t see any update… it’s almost half year past.
#It will be great to have an indication of how much battery we have gained back by regen maybe in the ride statistics.
Its not the worth dude. The battery’s capacity is 2.6 kWh. There is so little you get back that it will go unnoticeable. Having said that, do you know you can still figure out how much you got back?
Yes noticed, continuosly using regeneration for 1km in downhill will generate 1% it’s my personal experience… it’s not possible to have in local ride to regeneration as we had in downhill.
If we have an indication and regen statistics it could be better…
No, how do we figure out how much we got back?
Keep an eye on the range displayed and how much you have actually travelled in the trip, you will see the predicted range will go up . You can then compare it with the original range you started with you will find how more you got back. Sorry my math skills suck. 
Oh😅 got it… I was thinking in wh/km gains but yeah I have noticed that range stays the same for continuously driving for another 1 or 2 kms downhill sometimes.
I was wondering what if we drive with 10wh/km then even ather can go 260+ kms😛, is achieving 15 to 20 wh/km impossible?
@atherenergy1 If only there was a live display of efficiency in wh/km we could have easily adjusted our driving style to become more efficient when we need more range, to extract more kms, it is a must have for an EV
Wow, 12.5wh/km but it was downhill, I was thinking downhill consumes ~0 wh/km, seems like normal driving on flat roads cannot give us below 20wh/km
But if we switch off the motor downhill then we can achieve 0 right?
Did you used regen while downhill? Theoretically that should give efficiency in negative numbers 
