Actually shuffling modes according to speeds actually makes your ride pretty efficient, heresay i also switch modes eco-ride-sports accordingly and gives me more efficient performance around 37-40 km/unit
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1kWh = 1unit So our battery is 3.7kWh = 3.7 unit
Per unit you can drive 37 kms/unit So total range from 100-0% is 36 * 3.7 = 133.2kms / per full charge
am I correct?
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No, Ather donât use full battery i.e. 3.7kwh, it uses about 3.4 to 3.5 kwh (not sure about exact number) for deep discharge protection
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3.3kWh is usable in 3.7kWh battery while 2.61kWh is usable in 2.9kWh battery packâŚ
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3.24 units
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Itâs actually a belt tensioning issue. The belt is quite loose and hence the motor was using more power and smart Eco is noticing that drain and limiting my available power. Once the belt tensioning is fixed itâs back to normal
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Heya
I bought my Ather 450X just last month n looking at your stats, i am quiet shocked. Initially for a week, i rode the bike on Eco-Ride mode only, but wasnt happy with the mileage. . Then seeing @Sharanyaâs message above tried Ride-Sport mode, but same result. Then happened to watch a video on YT n for a week tried Smart Eco
In short which ever mode i tried, the max range i got was 70-80 kms only
I ride for about 30kms per day, with an average speed of 40-65 km/hrâŚoccasionally touching 70km/hr
Plzzzz suggest me some tips for better range/mileage
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You arenât alone. I am in the same boat. My Odo is at 2000km now and it has been an year and half since I bought the scooter. I tried all the tips mentioned here but was able to squeeze out a range of only 80-90 max. No matter how slow I go and how gently I accelerate itâs the same story.
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Acceleration is the key. Modes doesnât matter, when you drive below 60 kmph.
You will be tempted to achieve maximum speed when you move your vehicle from zero, donât do that if you want good range.
Here is my stats, it includes solo and with pillion. So it gives an idea whatâs the average range I get on each mode and thereâs no big difference.
Use brakes only when itâs needed, try to use the regen when you want to slow down. My friend was using the vehicle in May-24 and see the dip.
In addition, check tyre pressure and keep it optimum.
The weight of the rides impact little, it just physics. A person with 60kg weight get more range than 90kg. Same with rides with pillion. Canât do anything here.
And finally the external temperature. The range would be slightly lesser in the summer due to the heat.
Take your vehicle to service center if nothing works for you.
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Have been riding solo from day oneâŚnot once pillion riddenâŚ
I do use regen as much as possible, but in bumper to bumper traffic cant avoid braking
I have TPMS (whatever its called, to check the pressure), in place
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Hmm⌠very disappointed 
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How to get this details
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Until now my range and efficiency figures were complete garbage. But recently I got my belt tensioning checked and found out was it was almost 25 points loose on the gauge. As a result it was using up so much power from the battery while delivering shit range and instant power reduction in Smart Eco. Once they fixed the belt tensioning I am getting amazing Economy figures as well as stellar range. I am sure I will cross 105 or more in this cycle. If you are facing instant power restriction and high efficiency figures even after riding very gently do get your belt tensioning checked and that will fix the issue.
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My observation on latest Stack6 on 450X
- UI was smooth
- Map Starting form Current location (compare to Previous one Starting from Bengaluru)
- Maps was loading faster 4)Bluetooth connectivity is Seamless working all conditions without interruption
- Major Major True range is More Accurate
- Charging Time is Little bit accurate compare to previous.
Note: According to my knowledge Ather Battery pack is 3.7Kw But usable battery is is 3.7-0.5(Reserve for Deep discharge and other electronics) = 3.2Kw Example: So letâs calculate the efficiency 30km/Unit 30x3.2 = 96km For 100% battery in smart eco mode gives 110km true range. Technically per unit we will get minimum 32-33 kms on smart eco mode. My observations are also maximum accurate. If Ather provides those reserve battery we will get true range 122+kms. So technically we can ride 140+kms according to the road and traffic. Iâm getting on my vehicle HR model per 1% battery Iâm getting 1.3-1.4 per km after new update.(testing purpose I drive on below 60kmph with minimal acceleration - previous I got 1.2kmph). Today I drove on Warp mode with accelerating minimal and speed less than 50-55kmph , I got 1.4-1.5 kmph.
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True bro, with less acceleration and more use of regen results in high range.
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Range[quote=âsaranyam.13891, post:1, topic:14059, full:trueâ] I have heard many people complain about the range they get in different modes (Eco/Ride/Sports).
I have a fair understanding on how the battery is utilized based on my riding styles and my observations. I have achieved ~100kms in SPORTS / RIDE modes and not in ECO mode on my Ather 450 and I will explain how.
As per the above image, Ather has provided us the numbers for each mode. These ranges are not the maximum that you can achieve.
- ECO mode: 75 kms range with 100% battery, with a top speed of 50km/hr.
- RIDE mode: 65 kms range with 100% battery, with a top speed of 60km/hr.
- SPORTS mode: 55 kms range with 100% battery, with a top speed of 80km/hr.
With these ranges and top speeds, how do I actually achieve ~100kms with my every ride?
The answer is simple, but you need to understand how the battery is utilized in each mode.
Battery utilization: According to what I have observed, the battery charge will be utilized differently with each of the modes based on different factors, mainly the speed you try to achieve, the riding style and the load on the vehicle (i.e. with/without pillion rider, weight in the bike storage etc - The more weight the bike has to pull, the more battery charge it utilizes) among other factors like tyre pressure (make sure you check tyre pressure frequently and keep it as per the suggested units) etc.
There is this main logic that I figured out based on my rides - The more speed you try to achieve in each mode, the more the battery charge is used. For example, if you ride at ~45-50km/hr in Eco mode (remember that the top speed is 50km/hr for Eco mode?), more battery charge is used as you are trying to use the maximum speed for that particular mode you are on. But if you try to ride at the same speed in other modes - Ride/Sports - the battery charge will not be used as much as that of Eco mode. This is how I achieve more range with different riding modes.
More examples to understand and improve the range on your Ather 450 based on the speed you prefer to ride on.
- Sports mode - I always prefer this mode, because as I said, riding at 50-60km/hr in this mode does not use much battery charge (because top speed is 80km/hr in this mode) as compared to Eco/Ride modes. I always ride 40-60km/hr in this mode and get ~100 kms range.
- Ride mode - I prefer this mode second. Riding at ~40km/hr in this mode does not use much battery charge (because top speed is 60km/hr in this mode) as compared to Eco mode. But riding at 50-60km/hr in this mode uses more battery charge as compared to Sports mode.
- Eco mode - I do not prefer this mode as I ride usually at ~40-60hm/hr. Riding at even 40km/hr in this mode uses more battery charge (because top speed is 50km/hr in this mode) as compared to Ride/Sports mode.
Another factor is Rash riding. Do not increase the ride speed drastically, increase the speed very gradually and slowly. This uses more battery charge. You can literally see this factor on the screen when you ride. The screen turns RED when you ride rash (i.e. either suddenly increasing the speed, or when going uphill with a higher speed etc). You can always try to keep the screen from going RED and keep it GREEN as always as possible. Sometimes the screen goes from GREEN to BROWNish color when you gradually increase the speed towards the top speed, do not worry as this is the right way to increase and if you get BROWNish instead of RED, you are good. When you get RED on the screen, slowly decrease the speed until RED vanishes and try to maintain constant speed wherever possible.
My office is 27-28 kms away from my home. After reaching office, I shutdown my bike. I travel for a total of 55-56kms a day to and fro in Sports mode at ~40-65km/hr. After all this, I am still left with ~50% of the battery (usually 45-50%) when I get back home. This shows that the speed does not matter as far as you do not ride at max/top speed (Mentioning again that riding at max/top speed uses more battery for a particular mode).
Another example is I went for a ride in Sports mode with 100% battery covering 86kms in total at 50-70km/hr and I was left with 14% of the battery after.
To conclude use the different available modes according to the speed you prefer to ride at. Use either Ride/Sports mode If you usually ride at ~40km/hr, use Sports mode if you usually ride at >50km/hr. You can use Eco mode if you usually ride at ~20km/hr. Do not try to achieve the maximum speed in any mode as this reduces the battery percentage hugely. Try to change your riding style to get GREEN or sometimes BROWNish color on the screen. Always shutdown your bike when you know for sure you wouldnât use your bike for the day or for another 4 hours.
Hope this helps.
Here is the blog I created - https://saranya-blogs.blogspot.com/2021/01/tips-to-get-good-range-from-electric-vehicles.html
Please share it with others so that more and more switches happen from fuel vehicles to EVs. [/Image]
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(post deleted by author)
The above images shows my experience in warp and sport mode
The ride that I could never forget with a 420 days of ownership and the beast accelerates at its best.
Thankyou @saranyam.13891 for having set the guidelinesâŚ
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Do you expected value range of belt tensioning? Please attach here , it might help us in checking with SC.
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The frequency of the big belt thatâs attached to the rear wheel should be at 65-70hz on their tensioning gauze. Mine was at 95hz meaning it was too loose. Even in terms of riding the bike I noticed a huge difference my bike used to be jerky previously in certain scenarios but thatâs not the case now.
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