Schneider Electric is equally good. I have been using this brand for years and very reliable.
However commercial brands like Havells etc are not upto mark… I burnt my finger by going for this brand.
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Thank you everyone for the valued information, last thing I would ask as still I am unsure what capacity to install between 20 A to 40 A, I will share my current load details below, it will make easier for the experts to point me in right direction:
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Ather POD
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1.5 ton AC
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3 Litre instant geyser
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322 litre fridge
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32 Litre microwave
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5 fans of 33 watt each
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7 LED tube light and 3 LED bulb
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1 LED TV 42 inch
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6.5 Litre front load washing machine
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One food processor ,steam iron and bread toaster
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Kaff 60 Cm chimney
My entire electricity load and couple of appliances are used alternatively and on need basis.
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Go for 40A
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go for 40A if entire load is on one line
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Thank you very much
Should the green light blink , when it is charging , mine says it’s charging , but the range still remains the same , any idea why this is happening
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can u please insert the charger a bit further and check - if u have access to the bike now
Yes the idea is to call Ather Support !
Just had a word with them , as they mentioned they would call back in half an hour’s time .
And plus I didn’t get any noise as well , when trying to connect the charging to t
he bike , but on the screen it says that the vehicle is charging
Did try all possibilities Ather mentioned that they still haven’t got the access for the bike to charge from the Home charging pods , they mentioned they would call back in 20 mins once the work is done , from their side … strange though
go for it
even on prime it is showing up delivery charges!!
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Ather POD = 850 W (When Charging)
1.5 ton AC = Inverter AC (varies between 400 W to 1300 W); Non-Inverter AC (1700 W continuous as long as Compressor is ON)
3 Litre instant geyser = 3000 W
322 litre fridge = Inverter Compressor (varies between 40 W to 100 W); Non-Inverter Compressor (180 W continuous as long as Compressor is ON)
32 Litre microwave = 1200 W
5 fans of 33 watt each
7 LED tube light and 3 LED bulb = 170 W
1 LED TV 42 inch = 80 ~ 100 W
6.5 Litre front load washing machine = Non-Heater versions (300 ~ 400 W); Heater versions (upto 1600 W); Integrated Dryer versions (upto 3000 W)
One food processor, steam iron and bread toaster = 400 W + 1200 W + 800 W
Kaff 60 Cm chimney = 100 W
Total Approximate Watts if EVERYTHING is SWITCHED-ON at the same time and working at peak performance = 9500 W
9500 W / 220 V = 43.18 Amps
Minimum Wiring Gauge = 7 Sq.mm / Optimal = 8 - 10 Sq.mm
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You cannot go higher then 32A mcb. Since 32A is the max allowed sanctioned load and capacity for single phase meter.
If you put a higher rating mcb, you risk burning the wires and meter getting burnt. MCB is there to protect the wires. Never oversize them.
So get a 32a ‘C’ curve MCB, a C curve mcb can handle the initial high load of motor starting or AC.
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Thank you
Thank you for the input
Two weeks back, we had power cut and I noticed that I was able to remove the solenoid without key. I wasn’t sure if that was correct or not.
When called customer care for seat issue, I enquired about this and I was told that is expected behavior. I was surprised but didn’t check or discuss that again.
Today morning I turned off MCB and I realized I was not able to remove solonoid without key.
Was this bug or any OTA update fixed this?
Oh yeah! I remember seeing a 32A DP Switch with built-in Fuse at my grandmother’s house which has a single phase supply. It didn’t strike me until I saw your post.
My old home also used to have a single phase supply, but I didn’t have any traces of memory of looking at the power distribution board keenly.
My current home in Andhra Pradesh has a 63A, 4 Pole MCB for a three phase supply, so my brain was hovering in those metrics.
They also installed three Ceramic Fuses before the MCB, will get them removed soon.
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