Doesnt apply to the 450X or Plus as Raghav’s edit indicates.
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Great to hear this, happy that my tips were useful.
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This is good guidance. I have queries about best way to ride back downhill. For IC engine vehicle, there is guidance to use engine breaking. For Ather, Is it safe to ride downhill with kill switch off and control using brakes? if not, what mode we should use to maximize range? We know regen is just 4% level. We need to apply brakes anyway. So, will turned off motor will give more range? Consider this for more than 2-3 kms downhill road and not short slopes.
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Absolutely NOT!. Irrespective of the vehicle type, riding with motor off is dangerous - especially downhill. You need to have throttle control at all times to avoid obstacles, oncoming traffic and anything else Indian rods throw at you.
In 450 series, use the regen - twist the throttle in the reverse direction of acceleration- and you will feel the motor “braking”… if it’s too steep and you feel the regen isn’t slowing you down sufficiently then use the brakes.
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Regarding the safety aspects of shutting down the bike frequently, found this post from Abhishek Balaji.
So looks as @raghav.srinivasan mentioned, they have fixed the issue in hardware after Oct 2019 and all 450x and 450 plus do not have this issue anymore.
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This is a lovely thread! Adding my 2 paise to this:
While speed is a good way to get more range, what you need to really watch out for is efficiency.
For example: Assuming you start riding at 100% charge level, considering that the usable capacity of the battery in the 450X is 2.6 kWh = 2600 Wh. Expected efficiency is simply battery capacity / True Range
You have your true range:
Eco: 85 km Ride: 70 km Sport: 60 km Warp: 50km
| True Range | Expected efficiency (Wh/km) | |
|---|---|---|
| Eco | 85 | 30.59 |
| Ride | 70 | 37.14 |
| Sport | 60 | 43.33 |
| Warp | 50 | 52.00 |
The true range is calculated based on the riding data of users of the 450 and the 450X. It is entirely possible to ride in Warp mode and get < 30 Wh/km efficiency if you take it easy on the throttle, avoid harsh braking and acceleration, and maintain good tyre pressure.
Now, when you switch modes, your battery capacity still remains the same, just the torque and power given out by the motor is limited and as a result the top speed. You can also ride in Eco mode at 52 Wh/km efficiency, and you’ll get only 50kms of range.
Some scenarios you can explore to get familiar:
- Going uphill in Eco mode, at max throttle, you’ll be least efficient and hence get lower range
- Costing downhill in Warp mode, light on the throttle, more braking and regen, you’ll get a really high range in warp mode
The red halo around range displayed while riding is an indication of this. Avoid the red halo showing up (after you enable real-time efficiency in the settings ofc) and you’re going good on your riding style. It will pop up sometimes as your overtake or go uphill, but it’s easy to bring it back down.
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Thank you @abhishek.balaji, efficiency was another part which I did not know how to explain coz I did not know how to calculate it. Thank you for explaining this to us. The lower the efficiency, the higher the range.
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update the blog giving Abhishek the credits 
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Very nicely explained. 
It would help if ather can provide real time efficiency figure on the dashboard.
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Two of my ride statistics from today’s ride. 1.
Trust me the second one was not fun Riding though in Warp mode…
You know why…
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Mine is always glowing red irrespective of maintaining 30-40 kmph In ride mode
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Red on the screen indicates excessive battery usage, speed does not matter here. I get green on the screen even at 60kmph. It all depends on the riding style as I have explained in this topic. Try to ride smooth and do not accelerate suddenly, do not apply brakes suddenly. Try to maintain constant speed (whatever the speed be) wherever possible. Also check tyre pressure.
When you see red on the screen, try to slowdown until it vanishes and gradually increase the speed. It always works for me.
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Thanks. Will try again and let you know.
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THIS is underrated!. Because we never visit a petrol bunk, we don’t really bother to check the tyre pressure, especially if you are one to not use the vehicle everyday.
I checked mine after a very long time, front was at 25psi while rear had a meagre 14psi!.
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@saranyam.13891 @vigneshkrissh95 I think Abhishek is talking about real-time efficiency which comes in right side. Not the regular green, pale green, brown and red.
The real-time efficiency is always shows red even when doing a small throttle. But when we increase throttle it gives little big red. Only on zero throttle its not showing red, its very hard to understand it for me.
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It’s the same red I was talking about too. This is the one you need to keep an eye on.
It happens when throttled fast or riding uphill. When you see red, gradually decrease the speed and it goes away. You can increase the speed gradually after this and try to maintain constant speed if you can (I know! Bangalore roads 
), you won’t see this red anymore unless you are throttling too fast or riding uphill.
I don’t see much red in my rides as I follow all the tips from this topic all the time. This is one of the reasons I get good range.
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You can throttle hard and not have it show deep red because laden weight is low and the motor requires lesser torque/power to pull you.
The Red halo indicates higher power draw. You can see this even in eco mode if reminding pillion and move from a stopped position.
There are times when you cannot avoid it - riding out of a basement garage, starting with a pillion, just after a very heavy lunch…
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@saranyam.13891 Still I am confused.
Just wanna clear it, I am talking about real-time efficiency indicator which will not be on by default. Which will not be colour changed from green to red. The real-time efficiency indicator always shows red in colour it may increase the size of red.
Maybe I think it always shows some red on the minimum throttle in dark theme, I should check it in light theme for difference on little throttle and hight throttle.
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