Pillion rider foot rest

Is the owner of this Ather here

  • KA41 ES 6356

Looks Like they used the points inbetween the swingarm and the battery case to attach the centre stand clever

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Something @Cloudgraphy would be more keen about. :grinning:.

@maniashwin3003 true if he achieved something without tapping that footboard Ather should pay him tons of money to learn and implement immidiately.


@abhishek.balaji we are eagerly waiting waiting to have feedback from Ather side

If we observe closely, we can see the bolts here (Marked in Red out line) on both the sides may be this is how he has managed to fix the center stand.


From your photo looks like honda activa’s centre stand, All those claims of we cannot fix a centre stand does now stand void?

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I thought Ather’s main problem was the physical impact it would have on the battery pack. But if he’s found a place where there would be little to almost no impact. That’s just great. Also we’ve to see how it holds up to water now. It would be good if he used some waterproof gaskets or something wherever he used screws.

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That stand is not gonna hold up, 3 reasons.

  • That point here he has mounted it is a support frame for the battery to rear pillion footrest it’s just a support bracket type which connects from front to rear. any alteration in middle will damage or wrap it.
  • Even if he has found someplace and realtered the bolt, Now he has to connect both parts of a center stand, mounting it on 2 different bolts, the axis will create unequal equilibrium
  • Third, if he has counted both the points and somehow managed it, the case of the battery is now holding the entire weight of the scooter which will create new sets of problem

It’s where the mid frame base (where the motor is mounted) connects to the front sub frame. There is no overlap between that and the battery case. If the load has been distributed properly where the stand assembly meets the bolt, there will be no problems WRT structural integrity.

Of course, this won’t stop @ather from threats of warranty voidance, because they can’t stomach the fact that others are showing them up.


One of the prime reasons i didn’t like is because of the second point

If I were to make a center stand for ather I would use the same bolts create a clamp and move to stand to a little bit further to the front (to the actual points where ather uses it for servicing the scooter) and make the ather rest to 80deg, not like his which looks like a 88-90 deg straight up, this way the scooter won’t fall when someone touches.

But Ather can/will stop his warranty if the battery case or the side chassis cracks

Maybe Ather diched the idea of a center stand in favour of looks, that leaning scooter looks which is sporty bike looks, but not versatile for a Indian consumer


If you take the scooter apart, you’ll find plenty of things that can be done. Given that the mid frame already functions as a cross member connecting both the LH and RH sides of the frame, hanging stuff off the same mounts isn’t going to mess with balance or load bearing capacity like you fear.

I speak about warranty from experience. I modified my scooter to make it quieter and smoother by adding a vibration damper between both frames, and had to send it back to Ather to get the entire setup realigned at the advice of a friend who works there. Internal politics ensued after the scooter was dropped off there and a 2 day job ended up taking weeks, which also happened to coincide with the lockdown and the scooter was stuck there for months. In the meanwhile, I received dire calls about how my warranty would be voided (even though what I did had no direct impact on the motor or battery), and how I’d have to pay for the work carried out. I told them to do their worst and waited until all the lockdown related dust settled and they finally delivered my scooter after realigning the frames.

Frame alignment is yet another interesting implementation which seems to be needlessly complicated and desined in a way where it cannot be performed without a reference “zero frame” that only @ather has. Had I known that things would be this murky, I’d have saved myself the grief and made reference marks before I took the entire thing apart. That’s exactly what I’ll do if I decide to fiddle with the frame alignment next time.

With the damping in place and the belts aligned properly, the scooter now glides at any speed without a rumbling floorboard and I find myself doing higher speeds than I used to in the past because I’d back off when the rumbling started building but now doesn’t.

I’m not sure how a warranty situation will now be handled if it arises, but even if it stands void, the end result was well worth the cost.

Back on topic, I don’t care much for a center stand, but what has been done is pretty nifty. Kudos to good old ingenuity. I might borrow the idea to make a discreet mount for a service stand.


Ather already has Service mounts right below the floor board of the battery there will be 4 marking in the corners I have used them with my car jack with wood plank at those places when I went to change tyres

I use a low stool to prop it up loading the same location. This would simply be an easy project to kill some time.

Hmm, And I thought it’s just me that the scooter shakes like Hell on over speeds of 60, would love to have some Pics so I can also make adjustments in the future. Did you use the vibration dampening sheets? or adjusted the mounting and added Sorbothane washers?

I have some future projects, will do once the warranty period is over.

  • Change the Horn wires from the BMS, I don’t know who’s idea was to put these tiny-winy wires and this horn for this scooter.
  • Create or import a Fast charger for 14s cells of at least 40a. for emergency use.
  • Change the Transistor or the IC responsible for the Lag in Horn, you can feel it you press the horn and it works there is a slight delay. (or is it just me playing way too much GTA)
  • Bigger tires at least 120/70 in the rear and 110/80 in front
  • Clear or make the rear tail light Black so it blend in with the black rearguard or to stand out I mean look like Pulsar 220f’s tail lights
  • Create a perfect X shaped mount for lifting the scooter with a normal Hydraulic jack, or to put it on a jack stands
  • Last but not least add and aftermarket ABS and remove the CBS, I have seen and looked at various models and some Chinese versions of sensor disc will fit with Bosch’s Pulsar 180’s Module, The only thing I need is how I will connect the speed input vs disc input, That’s for later.

My future projects are all set


Wow this interesting!!! Are there any sources or DIY projects where we can convert the traditional CBS to ABS? I mean the resources which you noted down! Need to figure out the electronics and software where speed is taken into consideration or “to figure out the locking of wheels”

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Speed input is the major factor for the module to figure out whether the wheels are locking up or it’s a slow stop, Since Ather used combined wheel+gps+motor Rpm to display the speed on dash board, The only option is to add a wheel rpm speed input sensor, one which is found on Activa 125, create an input gear and spend days in calibration. Here are some sites https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33024286970.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000013.3.24623eecptZzoe&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.169870.0&scm_id=1007.13339.169870.0&scm-url=1007.13339.169870.0&pvid=b4368531-1714-4130-bc64-9c65230f920f&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller,scm-url:1007.13339.169870.0,pvid:b4368531-1714-4130-bc64-9c65230f920f,tpp_buckets:668%230%23131923%2330_668%230%23131923%2330_668%23888%233325%233_668%23888%233325%233_668%232846%238116%232002_668%235811%2327169%232_668%236421%2330831%23948_668%232717%237566%23840_668%231000022185%231000066058%230_668%233468%2315617%23822_668%232846%238116%232002_668%235811%2327169%232_668%236421%2330831%23948_668%232717%237566%23840_668%233164%239976%23481_668%233468%2315617%23822&&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22scene%22%3A%223339%22%7D

Custom sensor disc


I’ll do a full write-up on the procedure shortly, post it here and tag you. Didn’t take any pictures the first time around, but I will this time when I take the panels apart to add ram air ducts to cool the motor instead of that ill located fan shaped vibrator.

Long story short, your scooter vibration originates from the motor due to the shaft being side loaded. Since this is rigidly bolted to the mid frame which in turn is rigidly bolted to the rest of the chassis, all these vibrations spread everywhere and the aluminium magnifies this, and that’s what you feel. What was done (rather should have been done during the design phase) is provide physical separation between the mid frame and the rest of the chassis and add elastomer couplers AKA rubber mounts like they do in every other automotive application.

ABS is an interesting project that also crossed my mind, but the cost / benefit of that seems unreasonable at the moment. Not to mention the power required to run that system will be detrimental to the overall range which is already borderline pathetic.


Thats really impressive but looks terrible on otherwise a beautiful looking scooter imo :blush: peace :v: I guess it makes more sense why Ather ditched it in the first place. It doesn’t go well with the overall design.

also need to create an removable battery pack in the boot space Thanks for the idea


I had that idea too. I’m having a 3kW worth of 18650’s and 1.5kW easily fits in the boot, the real issue is of balancing the onboard and external battery and since it’s a low voltage system we gotta use some tick wires too to run them together.

The issue is ather uses proprietary charging protocol and is unknown to us how to get it fast charging or just charging even if we have supported SMPS lying around. I Have read here on forum that vehicles are locked with the chargers they come with .

If you still want to fast charge it, the only option is to directly feed power into BMS inputs.